News and Blog Articles
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News and Blog Articles
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Have you ever driven down someone’s driveway and commented on how bumpy the concrete is? Or maybe you’ve noticed how the sidewalk in the park has huge fissures and bulges, like something’s trying to break through. Maybe you’ve seen a veritable wall of bushes lined up in a row with one or two looking yellow and sickly, even though the bushes around them are just fine The likely culprit in all these situations: Roots! Most people don’t realize how large a root system can grow, and how far that root system will spread. Just like the tip of the iceberg you see sticking out of the water is only…well, the tip of the iceberg—there’s a massive danger lurking just beneath the surface, whose size is underrepresented by what you can see. The unsuspecting happily plant trees too close to buildings or other structures, sidewalks, pavement, and even each other, where their roots will cause all kinds of trouble down the road. City establishments are repeat offenders when it comes to planting trees too close to a sidewalk or playground; what they’re hoping will provide shade and a general enhanced aesthetic ends up destroying the walkway and poses a tripping risk for children. New homeowners are also guilty of this; thinking about how commanding and fairy-tale-like it would look with a pair of gorgeous oaks framing the driveway, they plant much too close to the pavement and end up with massive bumps and cracks in their new driveway. Sometimes, it’s the other way around; structures are built much too close to surrounding trees, with an unintentional disregard for the potential danger. In the South, this is seen frequently with sheds; people like to build one under a nice, big tree for the cool shade it offers (the shed itself will likely not be air-conditioned). This leads to roots breaking through the floor of your new workshop, which damages its structural integrity. But just as roots pose a major threat to your shed, driveway, and home, we can pose the same level of threat to the tree. Tree roots are incredibly sensitive to any kind of impact; whether it’s something as drastic as new construction, or something as innocuous as installing a sprinkler system, roots are notoriously easy to damage. Disturbed roots can stunt the tree’s overall growth, and can even end up killing off some (or even all) of the tree They are also at risk of suffocation from compacted soil; the ground can become denser when heavy machinery drives over it repeatedly, and this reduces the oxygen concentration as well as the water flow, which in turn can cause root rot and death. Unfortunately, about 90% of a tree’s root system lives in the first 12 to 18 inches of soil, meaning even surface-level alterations, like digging a new flower bed, can lead to root damage. Even worse, the effects of root damage can take 5 to 10 years to show in the tree itself, so you might not even realize you’ve disturbed anything until a lot later down the line So What Can You Do?The easiest answer is simple: account for the roots! To avoid roots damaging the things around them, don’t plant trees too close to anything, even each other. The rule of thumb when it comes to how big a tree’s root system will grow is that roots will most often mirror the tree they support; so however big you’re expecting your tree to get, you can expect the same size and spread underground, though without the leaves Be sure to note that when we say the roots will mirror their tree, we mean they will mirror how big the tree would naturally grow. Roots can spread with the intent to support their tree at its fullest potential, no matter how you curb the actual tree’s shape by pruning and trimming If you’re hoping to establish a privacy fence with a row of Leyland Cypresses, make sure you know how far apart they need to be; otherwise, they’ll crowd each other and end up competing for resources, and you’ll end up with some dead trees and a lot of holes in your privacy fence. If you want your shed to sit under the protection of canopy, consider elevating it so the floor is safely away from the ground, and there’s room underneath for roots to impose in. If you’re looking at planting a Crepe Myrtle by your front door, look into how big the tree will grow; while they are usually trimmed to look more like a bush, Crepe Myrtles are trees that can grow quite large, and their root system will reflect that no matter how small you’ve cut back the tree itself. What About Established Trees?Unfortunately, once a tree is established, there isn’t much you can do to curb the spread of its roots—except removing the tree entirely, which will kill the root system. If you’re concerned about the root system of an established tree on your property, schedule a free estimate with us today, and we’ll come out to give you our professional opinion on whether or not the root system presents a threat, and possible options for curbing that threat How Do You Protect Your Trees?The best way to avoid causing damage to your tree’s root system is to make sure you don’t do any kind of construction or land alteration too close to the tree’s trunk; the root system closest to the tree offers structural support as well as a bulk of the tree’s nutrients, and a hit there could be fatal. The ends of a root system, while still important, will have less of a drastic impact on the tree’s overall health The general rule of thumb to keep in mind is that you should stay about 6 to 12 inches away from the trunk for every inch of diameter the tree has. So, for example, if the tree is about a foot wide, that means its diameter is about 12 inches; this means you should give at least 72 inches, or 6 feet, of buffer around your tree if at all possible. When measuring diameter, make sure you’re working at breast-height, or about 4 and a half feet up from the ground If you’re unsure how close is too close, give us a call for a consultation or contact another certified arborist. Also be sure to keep an eye out for signs of damage and decay in your trees, which can indicate root damage. Check out our article on what to look for! Also, be sure to keep an eye out for our Tree of the Month articles; every month, we feature a tree that’s commonly found in Athens, or maybe a tree you might want to plant in your yard. We highlight the pros and cons of the tree, including how big it can get, so you’ll have a quantitative measure of how far the roots might spread. And remember, no matter what you plant, what you build, or what you do, always account for the roots! AuthorEmily Casuccio is sister and sister-in-law to Rebekah and Scott Rushing, and has over half a decade of experience in copywriting, copyediting, proofreading, and developmental storyboarding. She's worked with both published and undiscovered authors on both fiction and nonfiction, and takes pride in supporting local businesses. Her passion lies in the written word and helping authors of all capacities realize their dreams and achieve their fullest potential. To learn more about her, read samples of her work, or contact her, visit her online portfolio.
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Last week, we learned about What to Plant to Attract Pollinators, such as birds, bees, and butterflies. Doing your part to provide these animals with food and nesting grounds is an admirable thing, but sometimes, we’d rather not have bees buzzing around our back porch, and would definitely like to avoid birds nesting anywhere near our house, because they get poop everywhere. What can you plant to keep these pests away?Let’s start with bugs. On the whole, they’re pretty annoying, especially when you’re sitting on your patio and mosquitos keep landing on your arms and legs. While bees are friendly bugs that we might actually want around, wasps are menaces that terrorize children and adults alike with their angry buzz and painful sting. Plus, bugs like to eat away at your favorite flower bed and decimate your tomato plants. When selecting plants to run off bugs, try to avoid anything blue, violet, or yellow—those are bees’ favorite colors and they’ll all but flock to them. Bees can’t see the color red, though, so feel free to plant red flowers everywhere. Trumpet-shaped flowers are also a good bet, because bees and other pollinators have a hard time getting to the nectar in them, and they’re more likely to give up than stick around. What specific plants will deter insidious insects?Whether you’re looking to prevent bee stings and the subsequent crocodile tears, avoid mosquito bites and the associated itching, or just protect your plants from plant-eating monstrosities, these are for you. HerbsBasil – Bees and wasps especially dislike the smell and won’t even go near it Mint – Most all stinging insects hate the scent and will avoid it at all costs Rosemary – Again, the scent is a natural deterrent for insects in general Garlic – While it isn’t technically an herb, garlic will keep away things like stink bugs and snails (and bonus, it scares off vampires too!) Lemongrass – These tall stalks actually contain citronella, which is the natural ingredient in most mosquito repellants Chives – Make a great garnish for your favorite dishes, and specifically abhorrent to Japanese beetles and carrot rust flies Flowering PlantsChrysanthemums - The absolute best flower to plant to keep away bugs is the chrysanthemum. Their beautiful blooms will repel ants, Japanese beetles, roaches, bed bugs, spider mites, ticks, silverfish, harlequin bugs, and lice. Geraniums - Geraniums have beautiful blooms and a scent that stinging things dislike, and their petals are red, which bees can’t actually see. With miniscule pollen per flower, pollinators will move on to bigger and better things. Lavender - One of the most popular essential oil scents for humans, lavender is a natural mosquito, moth, and bug repellant. The only bugs willing to stick around are bees, so it can’t be your only line of defense, but it makes a great addition to your anti-insect arsenal. Marigolds - These colorful flowers come in red varieties, which means bees won’t be able to see them, but no matter their color, their scent puts off stinging insects. Marigolds are hardy and don’t require much care, making them a great addition to your garden. Nasturtiums - Plant these pretty flowers to specifically fight whiteflies and aphids. Rather than warding them off, nasturtiums actually attract them, and then trap them to keep them off your other plants! Just be sure to check the blooms regularly to dispose of the imprisoned insects, or they might escape to bother your other flora. Other PlantsCitronella - As you probably already know, citronella will keep away mosquitos and other annoying bugs that might disturb your nice night out on the patio. It’s actually much more effective in its natural plant form than in liquid or candle form, so if you don’t mind the smell yourself, it makes a great addition to your yard. Cucumber - Bet that’s not one you thought would be on this list, huh? But cucumber plants are actually great at keeping bees and wasps away. Both strongly dislike how bitter and acidic the cucumber peel is, and will generally avoid the plants all together. Plus, you’ll have fresh cucumbers for a summer salad, or even to make your own pickles! Wormwood - Wormwood actually contains a small amount of absinthe, which is toxic to insects. It has a pungent scent to alert bees, wasps, and other flying pests of the potential danger, and will easily keep them away. Other bugs that might not heed the warning smell will learn quickly that it is poisonous. Remember to be careful if you decide to add wormwood to your garden, though, because it can kill off other plants that are planted too close to it. Eucalyptus - Bees and wasps specifically don’t like the fragrance eucalyptus gives off, and they’ll steer clear. The drought-tolerant plant loves full sun, meaning it will do well here in Georgia, and can be used in essential oil applications as well as flower arrangements. Beyond BugsThe other repeat offenders in your yard are probably birds. Unfortunately, birds are the most difficult to get rid of. There is no one plant that will deter birds from your garden or yard; some might deter a species or two, but there are so many different kinds of birds in any given area that it wouldn’t do you much good. The only way to really keep birds away is to physically scare them off. If you’re trying to protect your vegetable garden from them, you can invest in things like garden netting. If you’d just like to keep them out of your yard, you can purchase things like little owl figurines that detect movement and then swivel their head to intimidate any feathered intruders. You can also DIY bird deterrents like making a wind chime of cut-up CDs, which will spin and move in even the slightest breeze and throw reflections around, scaring away the flying fiends. So there you have it. Between this list and last week’s The Birds and The Bees: What to Plant to Attract Pollinators, you have all the information you need to make educated decisions on what to plant around your home. Feel free to mix and match between these lists to attract and repel specific insects and pests as you see fit, and happy gardening! AuthorEmily Casuccio is sister and sister-in-law to Rebekah and Scott Rushing, and has over half a decade of experience in copywriting, copyediting, proofreading, and developmental storyboarding. She's worked with both published and undiscovered authors on both fiction and nonfiction, and takes pride in supporting local businesses. Her passion lies in the written word and helping authors of all capacities realize their dreams and achieve their fullest potential. To learn more about her, read samples of her work, or contact her, visit her online portfolio. Flower gardens are a highly-sought-after addition to any home. A bed of brightly-blooming flowers can enhance curb appeal and provide you with cut flowers at the significantly cheaper cost of cutting them yourself than paying for a bouquet at the grocery store. They also attract beautiful butterflies and singing birds, adding some whimsy and fantasy to your yard. In fact, attracting wildlife like birds, bees, and butterflies is one of the most important functions of any flower; these pollinators and seed-spreaders are vital to the continuation of any plant species, and—in the case of honey bees, specifically—the continuation of the pollinators themselves. Most everyone in the South knows that Milkweed is planted for Monarch butterflies. These insects swarm to the southeast to breed, and Milkweed is vital for Monarch larvae. Though it isn’t perhaps the most attractive plant, Milkweed is a beneficial addition to any landscape But what other plants should you plant to help out the butterflies, or the birds, or the bees? We’ve compiled a list of flora that’s best at attracting our flying friends, so you can add something pretty and ecologically valuable to your yard. Whether you’re looking to fill a small flower bed or your entire yard, if your goal is to attract all kinds of pollinators and seed-spreaders, then these are for you: Bee BalmAs you may have guessed from the rather on-the-nose name Bee Balm is a magnet for bees. Though the attractive perennial may yellow in the heat of summer, rest assured that any established plant will reliably return year after year. Bee Balm also interests butterflies and birds—especially hummingbirds SageMore than just a delicious herb, Sage plants offer gorgeous flowers and are perfect sources of nectar for bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds alike. These perennials are surprisingly easy to grow and maintain, and as an added bonus, give you fresh herbs to add to your favorite dishes! ZinniaZinnias are a beautiful addition to any flower bed, and attract all sorts of songbirds in addition to hummingbirds, butterflies, and bees. They require a bit more maintenance than some of the other options on our list; to continue blooming, they’ll need the heads of any dead blooms trimmed off. But, if you’re willing to spend a little time in the garden tending them, Zinnias will happily provide colorful flowers all summer long Other attractive plants for pollinators and seed-spreaders include Verbena, Thistle, Nasturtium, and Hollyhock. But maybe you’re not interested in attracting just any friends into your yard. Maybe you’d like to avoid the avian seed-spreaders, because they like to wake you up at 6AM singing with the sunrise. Maybe you’d rather not have butterflies, because that means caterpillars, which appear to be tasty snacks to dogs and toddlers alike. Or maybe you’re hoping not to attract bees, because you’ve got kiddos around and aren’t interested in the crocodile tears that come with bee stings (trust us, we’ve been there). If you want to be a bit more specific in what you attract, check out these: Lavender - Good for Butterflies and BeesLavender attracts butterflies and bees thanks to their gentle fragrance and gorgeous purple blooms. In addition to a colorful addition to your yard, lavender comes with a variety of uses and benefits for humans, too. The gentle scent is known for its soothing, relaxing effect, and the dried plant is often used in air-freshener satchels, since its smell isn’t overpowering. Lavender is also a great addition to your herb arsenal, and can be used in a variety of dishes, from sweet pastries to savory entrees Borage – Good for Butterflies and Bees Borage, more commonly known as Starflower, starts out a light pink color and then mature into a wonderful blue. They make great neighbors for tomato plants, and are attractive to butterflies and bees. Borage is an annual plant, which means the same plant won’t come back again next year—but they naturally re-seed, meaning a patch of Borage will likely sprout new plants next year from the seeds of the old ones Liatris – Good for Butterflies and Hummingbirds Liatris comes in purple, pink, and white blooms with grass-like, spiky leaves. They can reach heights of up to 5 feet tall, and require little to no maintenance. They are tolerant of drought, cold snaps, and pests, and will bring in colorful butterflies and flitting hummingbirds alike Phlox – Good for Butterflies and Hummingbirds This flowering plant grows low to the ground and is fairly hardy, making it great ground cover. It attracts butterflies and hummingbirds, and blooms from early spring all the way through summer Geraniums – Good for Hummingbirds and Bees Geraniums are beautiful cluster perennials that will come back every year and attract hummingbirds and bees. They require minimal care, though they do best if blooms are trimmed once dead, to encourage more flowers Other more selectively attractive plants include Scabiosa and Delphinium, good for butterflies and hummingbirds, Four O’Clocks and Paintbrushes, good for hummingbirds and bees, and Cosmos and Goldenrods, good for butterflies and bees. Lastly, we want to point out that you don’t actually have to have a flower garden, or flowering plants in general, to contribute to the pollinators and seed-spreaders. Some trees and shrubs will also get the job done, and require much less maintenance: Oak TreesThese stately trees attract moths and butterflies, which in turn attracts a wide array of bird species. Plus, they’re gorgeous! WillowsWhether it’s the shrub-like Pussy Willow or the grand Weeping Willow, these trees are highly enticing to a variety of birds thanks to their nesting real estate and protective foliage. They also attract their fair share of butterflies and bees, and can bring some height to your yard that might otherwise be filled with shorter flowering plants Cherry TreesBlack Cherries, Common Chokecherries, and other native cherries feed birds, caterpillars, and moths alike, and are a great addition to any landscape. Other tree species great for the birds, the bees, and everything in between include Birches, Dogwoods, Hollies, Elderberries, Mulberries, and Junipers. So there you have it. Any combination of the plants listed above will turn your yard into an oasis of food, pollen, and nesting ground. No matter which you choose to plant, keep in mind that all of our flying friends are most attracted to a diverse range of options—like us, they’re not happy with the same-old-same-old for every meal. A healthy mix of perennials, flowering plants, and trees or shrubs will ensure every single bee, bird, and butterfly has something to snack on, and will help the stability of your local ecosystem! Now, if you’re interested in keeping insects and birds and butterflies away, tune in next week for our article, Ecological Warfare: What to Plant to Discourage Potential Pests. AuthorEmily Casuccio is sister and sister-in-law to Rebekah and Scott Rushing, and has over half a decade of experience in copywriting, copyediting, proofreading, and developmental storyboarding. She's worked with both published and undiscovered authors on both fiction and nonfiction, and takes pride in supporting local businesses. Her passion lies in the written word and helping authors of all capacities realize their dreams and achieve their fullest potential. To learn more about her, read samples of her work, or contact her, visit her online portfolio. With the days getting warmer and summer on its way, you and your family will probably be spending more of your free time outside. As you enjoy the sunshine, you might realize that some of your trees don’t look so healthy. Maybe their leaves are dying, or maybe they’re riddled with holes. Either way, those trees can and should make you nervous, because if they fail, they can cause bodily harm as well as property damage. But how do you know what’s actually a cause for concern? Though not all indications of decline are easily visible, by keeping your eye out for these five common signs, you will know when it’s time to call your friendly neighborhood arborist! Dead, Dying or Discolored LeavesPerhaps one of the easiest signs to notice is when your tree’s leaves behave abnormally. When a leaf dies, it usually will first change color and then fall from its tree; this is what creates the beautiful reds, vibrant oranges, and stunning yellows we associate with autumn. However, this process is only normal for one season. If the leaves of your tree are changing color and falling off and it’s not Fall, your tree might have some internal issues that’s causing the leaves to die prematurely. Sometimes, leaves will die and fall from only one area of your tree; this might indicate that a particular limb is dead or dying. While this is normal, and the tree will eventually drop this limb, it is better to have an arborist go ahead and remove that limb for safety reasons and the overall health of the tree. Mushrooms and Fungus and Conks, Oh My! Another sign that your tree isn’t as healthy as it should be is the growth of parasitic organisms that feed on organic matter. Though mushrooms can be pretty to look at, and give your tree a fairy tale air, if they’re growing around the base of a tree, it probably means there is damage or rot of the tree’s roots. The fungi happily feeds on this decaying root matter, and while they might not be the cause of a tree’s failure, they are certainly a warning sign. Besides fungi around the base of your tree, you should also keep your eye on fungal growths on the trunk of your tree, such as fungal conks. Fungal conks look like little lamp shades sticking out from a tree’s bark; they are often patterned similar to bark, and may look like a natural growth of the tree. In reality, these conks are actually the fruiting bodies (reproductive sacs) of a type of fungus called mycelium. This fungus can grow at the base of your tree, indicating root decay, or can be festering beneath the bark of your tree, indicating internal trunk decay. There are an endless array of fungi that can grow on your tree, and not all of them are a bad sign; the best course of action if you notice some mushrooms or strange plants appearing on or around your tree is to have a professional arborist perform a simple evaluation to determine the tree’s health. If, after reading this, you’re already thinking of a couple of trees with fungi that might need attention, please give us a call! We offer free estimates, and will investigate the state of your tree and advise whether it needs treatment or removal; an estimate also gives you the cost of the different treatment and removal options, so you can make the most informed decision possible. Insects, Bugs, and Other PestsThough insects and bugs are vital to our ecosystem, we often don’t want to see them—especially in the house! When you notice something like apparent sawdust on your porch, you probably immediately investigate the two most common culprits: carpenter bees and termites. If you notice sawdust around your tree, you should have the same reaction. Those tell-tale little piles of sawdust indicate that insects have burrowed into your tree, and if they’re burrowing, the wood inside is probably dead or dying. Other indications of insects making a home out of your tree include: small pinholes in limbs or tree trunks that indicate an insect’s entry point, dried sap (called resin masses or pitch tubes) on the outside of the tree that leaks after a bug gets in, and even woodpeckers jackhammering away, looking for a tasty meal. Some species of insect will also impact the leaves of your tree; if you see mottled brown spots, or strips of discoloration, or randomly dispersed holes, this might indicate the presence of insects. These insects might also gather on the underside of your leaves without doing too much damage to the leaves themselves, so if you suspect an infestation, be sure to check. Did You Know?One of the most common infestations of pine trees in our area is the pine beetle, also knows as the southern pine beetle, or Dendroctonus frontalis.
These relatively large insects like to live just under the bark of your pine, and leave behind lots of resin masses that might look like polka dots.
They pests move from tree to tree in a directional pattern, resulting in an obvious trail of dead trees. The best course of action is to remove the infected tree as quickly as possible to prevent them from spreading. Canker Sores – Not Just for Your Mouth! The term canker sore probably evokes unpleasant memories of the tiny ulcers that develop in the mouth and on or around the lips, making eating and drinking uncomfortable and even painful. Trees can also develop little sores, referred to as cankers, that leave them vulnerable to further damage, insect infestation, and rot. Cankers often appear on trees plagued by fungi growing between the bark and actually tree trunk, but can be caused by things as simple as damage from your lawn mower or even rough hail. A tree canker sore will appear as nothing more than a small, dead area on the bark, stems, branches, or twigs. Bark cankers appear as a different color than the healthy bark, and might also be indented thanks to the interior decay. The canker becomes something of a magnet for bacteria, fungi, and insects, inviting further infestation and damage to the tree. Because of this, it is extremely important to diagnose a canker as early as possible! Cavities and Hollows If you’ve ever been on a hike, to a park, or wandered through the woods, you’ve probably seen a tree with a cavity, and thought it looked rather cool. These hollows seem like the perfect place for a cute squirrel or mama owl to nest; children’s books often depict these holes as such, suggesting that these occurrences are normal and no cause for concern. Unfortunately, these cavities indicate internal decay and present a high risk of tree failure. At best, these holes reduce the structural integrity of the tree, making it more liable to snap or fall under its own weight in harsh weather. At worst, cavities expose the decaying interior of the tree to external forces, insect infestations, and fungi that cause it to decline even faster and greatly increases the chances that the tree will need to be removed entirely. So What Can You Do? Some cases of insects and fungi growth can be treated. The best thing you can do is keep a close eye on your trees, and have a trained, experienced arborist evaluate anything questionable. The quicker the decay is addressed, the easier it is to reduce the risk of danger to you and your family. At Classic City Arborists, we offer free estimates that include Scott, our certified arborist, coming out to your property to closely inspect the trees you’re concerned about and offer his professional opinion on the best course of action, as well as some estimates for the cost of those actions. Even if you don’t call us, or if you find another company that you’d like to work with, we strongly recommend you find a company that is licensed and insured for the safety of you, your family, your property, and your trees! AuthorEmily Casuccio is sister and sister-in-law to Rebekah and Scott Rushing, and has over half a decade of experience in copywriting, copyediting, proofreading, and developmental storyboarding. She's worked with both published and undiscovered authors on both fiction and nonfiction, and takes pride in supporting local businesses. Her passion lies in the written word and helping authors of all capacities realize their dreams and achieve their fullest potential. To learn more about her, read samples of her work, or contact her, visit her online portfolio. Two of the services Classic City Arborists is proud to offer can often be confusing: the free estimate service and our Tree Risk Assessments. Free estimates involve customers asking for our professional opinion on specific projects or individual trees; for more information, please see our Free Estimates article! Tree Risk Assessments (TRAs), on the other hand, are a lot more intensive, and are subsequently not a free service. During a TRA, a qualified arborist will evaluate all the trees on a given plot of land to assess their risk potential and then advise the owner or manager of the property of which trees may require immediate attention. But what does that mean?First of all, you have to be certified by the International Society of Arboriculture (ISA) with their Tree Risk Assessment Qualification (TRAQ) to perform a TRA; Scott Rushing proudly earned his TRAQ in January of 2019. His name is listed on the ISA’s Trees are Good website along with all other certified arborists. To qualify to take the TRAQ course, you have to meet certain requirements as an arborist, such as being an ISA-Certified Arborist or having a degree in arboriculture, forestry, or horticulture. Scott holds a Bachelor's in Agricultural Education from the University of Georgia and is an ISA-Certified Arborist. The TRAQ itself involves a two-day, instructor-lead educational course, followed by half a day of both written and field assessments. Once completed successfully, the certification is active for five years; TRAQ holders must take a renewal course, which involves an abbreviated version of both the original educational material and test. What is the TRAQ?
There are three different levels of intensity when it comes to Tree Risk Assessments. The first level is referred to as a limited-visual assessment, also sometimes referred to as drive-by assessments. This level of assessment is commonly employed in urban forest environments, but can be required anywhere a visual inspection is difficult to perform due to limited access. In a limited-visual assessment, the arborist will scan for obvious high-risk trees with immediate care needs. The second level of TRA is a basic assessment, which involves a 360-degree inspection of the tree(s) in question. It is more thorough thanks to greater access, and often involves the use of basic measurement and assessment tools, such as tape measures for diameter, binoculars for crown inspection, a mallet for detecting hollow trunks, and/or a probe for cavity evaluations. Lastly, the third level is referred to as an advanced assessment. This in-depth inspection can involve all of the previously-mentioned methods, as well as aerial evaluation, decay detection, health evaluation, wind load assessment, and static load assessment. These three processes were created to help property owners, property managers, and tree owners get the information they need to make educated decisions regarding the trees in their care, whether that decision is to trim back some limbs, let the tree grow normally, or cut the tree down entirely. Basically, this means that a TRAQ-holding arborist can accurately and efficiently follow the standardized, systematic process for assessing any tree’s potential risk, as defined by the International Society for Arboriculture. By adhering to the ISA’s guidelines, certified arborists ensure that each risk assessment is as accurate, consistent, and thorough as possible. Trees come with a myriad of social, economic, and environmental benefits. Whether they’re used as shade trees or planted specifically to strengthen the ground integrity of the area, trees are an invaluable resource to any urban or rural landscape. As the age and size of the tree increases, so do these benefits; however, so do the risks. Older, larger trees are more likely to shed branches, develop decay, incur pest infestations, and present a heightened fall risk due to damages they’ve collected over the years. Even younger trees can be predisposed to failure, or fall victim to inclement weather and other natural events. When performing a TRA, no matter its level, Scott keeps these benefits and risks in mind, aiming to weigh the two against each other and ensure customers are aware of when the risks outweigh the benefits, and vise versa. He will look at and document a variety of factors pertinent to the decision-making process, including structural condition, tree load, tree adaptation, relation to surrounding structures, and proximity to traffic and populated areas; he will use this information to evaluate a tree’s risk of failure, the degree of that failure, the consequences of that failure, and the potential surrounding targets that may be affected by that failure. After the evaluation, each tree will receive a risk category that can then be compared to the level of risk that you, as the property owner or manager, find acceptable. The four risk categories are Low, Moderate, High, and Hazard/Hazardous. Low and Moderate risk ratings are not usually recommended for full removal, while High and Hazardous are. Acceptable risk level may be determined by a homeowner’s association, or your town or county (or even state) standards. Along with evaluating and reporting a tree’s risk, a TRA involves noting the treatments and suggested actions associated with each tree to bring it within an acceptable level of risk. If a tree’s risk category exceeds the level or risk defined by the authoritative party, then Scott will recommend some kind of mitigation. This mitigation can include anything from just trimming back a few dead limbs all the way up to removing the entire tree. This means Scott will not only tell you which trees present a danger to you and your home, but will also tell you exactly how it can be fixed! Each mitigation option will be detailed out along with its respective cost. This way you can determine, not only which options are more pressing, but also which ones are within your budget. More information on free estimates and what this line-item evaluation will look like can be found here. At the end of the day, getting a Tree Risk Assessment from Classic City Arborists is one of the best ways to get you have all the information you need about all the trees in your care to ensure they are set to live long, happy, and healthy lives. If you’d like to schedule a Tree Risk Asessment, please click here! AuthorEmily Casuccio is sister and sister-in-law to Rebekah and Scott Rushing, and has over half a decade of experience in copywriting, copyediting, proofreading, and developmental storyboarding. She's worked with both published and undiscovered authors on both fiction and nonfiction, and takes pride in supporting local businesses. Her passion lies in the written word and helping authors of all capacities realize their dreams and achieve their fullest potential. To learn more about her, read samples of her work, or contact her, visit her online portfolio. Sources: ISA Tree Risk Assessment Qualification Community Tree Risk Assessment Tree Risk Assessment Methods: A Comparison of Three Common Evaluation Forms The oak trees shown here would usually be a beautiful part of the back yard landscape for this client, but instead they have been choked out by the ivy and are in decline. The client wants to remove the trees instead of cutting the ivy off in this case. Normally, this would be a straightforward removal but in this case the majority of the ivy needs to be removed before the tree can be safely taken down. (Ivy needs to be removed enough to where the Arborist can inspect the tree for any defects that could cause the tree to fail during removal) In short, between extra time needed for removal and extra time spent cleaning up debris (ivy) this tree can cost 1.5 to 2 times more than the normal market price to remove. Don't let ivy overtake your landscape! Most people don't realize how damaging ivy can be to a tree. - it can potentially choke out the canopy of a tree, causing it to partially or completely die back - it adds hundreds of pounds of extra weight to a tree, which could cause an otherwise healthy tree to fail in extreme weather conditions - it can hide mechanical defects that exist on a tree such as cavities or areas of decay - it can make a tree much more costly to remove How can you effectively manage ivy on your property? - Prune ivy around the base of each tree that has ivy growing on it - Be sure not to damage the bark of the tree when cutting the ivy off - Don't use a chopping style tool, like an axe or machete, to remove the ivy, instead use a hand saw. - You only have to cut away ivy on the lower 4 to 5 feet of the trunk, the rest will die and fall off over time - Ivy may try to grow back up the trunk later, but it should be easy to prevent if you add "ivy prevention and pruning" to your yard maintenance plan once or twice a year. If you have any questions please feel free to contact us. Scott Rushing or Rebekah Rushing Classic City Arborists Or click here to fill out a contact form! AuthorScott Rushing is a father, small business owner, and ISA-Certified Arborist. If you’ve done any work with us, then you’ve definitely met him! He holds a degree in Agricultural Education from UGA, and has over 10 years of experience in the tree service industry. When he’s not climbing trees, he is Daddy to two under four, both redheads like him, and likes to spend his time going on adventures with his family. If you’d like to schedule an estimate or get more information about the kind of work Scott does, check our website, blog, or feel free to give him a call! While removing the stump after a tree is gone might seem like an unnecessary expense, there are actually many important reasons to complete the removal by having the stumps ground. Remaining stumps in a yard can be an eyesore for the meticulous landscaper. Even an amateur landscaper will have difficulty navigating the lawn mower around the hidden stumps. While that stump may not be considered a blemish in the yard, it can still be a safety hazard. Small children and pets could trip and harm themselves revealing a hidden liability. Removing decaying stumps from the yard will also reduce the amount of insects in the area. These pests feed off the opening left from the tree removal, and then work their way into the healthy trees, plants, and ornamental décor surrounding the leftover stump. The best way to reduce the possibility of additional pest destruction, is to remove stumps. Leftover stumps can also sprout multiple new trees from the roots. When a pesky Sweet Gum tree is removed to eliminate all the Sweet Gum Balls on the ground, if the stump remains, it can quickly sprout multiple new Sweet Gum Trees that will swiftly grow to release their own little hazards all over the yard. Practice self-pruning in a yard by removing the stumps to limit which trees grow back. Whether it's for safety, pest removal, or to keep that tree from growing back, having stumps ground is a beneficial next step after tree removal. AuthorRebekah Rushing is a mother of two under four and the co-owner of Classic City Arborists. When she isn't dealing with snotty noses and dirty diapers, she manages customer service, accounting & finance, marketing & advertising, and human resources. If you have worked with us on a project, then you have undoubtedly spoken with her on the phone at least once! Check out our website, which she designed, or give us a call to speak with her directly. Back in December of 2015, I gave an estimate to a client for removing a sweetgum tree that had been dead for at least six months and it was evident that it was hollow at the base. The tree itself was not very large, but did stand about 80 feet tall with a 16 inch base and could still pose a threat to people and property due to the fact that. It was located within 5 feet of the driveway and 15 feet of the home. Some time had passed and I figured that the homeowner had found someone else to do the job for them. To my surprise, I received an email in April asking if my price would still be honored for removing the tree. I replied to the email stating that I would indeed honor the price given during the estimate as long as there were no distinct changes in the tree or job details. On May 4th, 2016, I arrived to remove the sweetgum tree. After evaluating the tree again, I decided that I could still remove the tree for the agreed upon price. Below are some picture of the tree before removal and during removal. I will discuss the photos in detail to better describe the process of removal and describe the importance of removing dead trees as soon as they are noticed. (Article Continued Below Slideshow) In short, It is of the utmost importance for safety of people, pets and property to remove dead trees as soon as they are identified. Even though we took precautions to account for the tree breaking as we removed it, sometimes accidents still happen. It is hard to predict what might happen as compounding forces act on a dead tree. If this tree had been taken out even a few months later, or not at all, it could have caused major harm to person or property. On the contrary, if the tree had been taken down in December, it might not have broken at all during removal. If you have identified dead or dying trees on your property, please have a certified arborist give you an estimate for removal and schedule the removal in due time. It's safer for you and the workers removing the tree and it could also save you money! Click Here to schedule your Free Estimate AuthorScott Rushing is a father, small business owner, and ISA-Certified Arborist. If you’ve done any work with us, then you’ve definitely met him! He holds a degree in Agricultural Education from UGA, and has over 10 years of experience in the tree service industry. When he’s not climbing trees, he is Daddy to two under four, both redheads like him, and likes to spend his time going on adventures with his family. If you’d like to schedule an estimate or get more information about the kind of work Scott does, check our website, blog, or feel free to give him a call! |
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