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 Phew, it’s getting hot outside! The first day of summer was June 1st, so the warmest season is finally upon us. But the summer solstice, also considered the first day of summer, isn’t until June 21st. So what gives? What is the Summer Solstice?The word “solstice” comes from the Latin solstitium, which means “sun stands still.” There are two solstices a year – one in summer, and one in winter. Both solstices are days when the Earth’s axis, or tilt, is aligned with the sun. In the winter, that alignment means we have the longest night, or the most hours of darkness. In the summer, it means we have the longest day, or the most hours of sunlight! In more temperate climates, the summer solstice is used to mark the middle of the season, and celebrated as Midsummer. In warmer climates, like here in Georgia, the solstice is often considered the first day of summer.  But what about June 1st, then? Two First Days of SummerYou’ve probably heard that June 1st is the first official day of summer. In fact, you’ve probably seen it marked on calendars and announced by news anchors. This is because meteorologists divide the 12 months of the year into 4 equal seasons. They do this to make compiling and comparing climate data over the years easier to comprehend. The meteorological summer season is June 1st through August 31st. But traditionally, and across a variety of cultures in warmer climates, the solstice has been seen as the real first day of summer. Summer Is Here. So What Now?Either way you view it, the 1st or the 21st, summer is here. There are lots of things to keep in mind as we move into the hottest months of the year. First, while the spring planting season is over, that doesn’t mean you can’t still get out in the garden! There’s a host of things you can plant during the hotter months. Check out our article on What to Plant This Summer to learn more. Second, and most importantly, we’ve already talked about impending summer storms. While hurricanes don’t usually reach us, they do tend to send lots of rain and heavy winds our way, which can easily topple a compromised tree. It’s important to keep your eyes on your trees this time of year, and our blog post on signs of decay can help you identify potential problem trees that may pose a higher fall risk. If you do see something concerning, or even something you just aren’t sure about, it’s best to call a Certified Arborist immediately.  If you do, remember this is the busy season for your local tree services and certified arborists. In the summer, everyone is spending more time outside, looking at their trees, and calling their local arborists. We’re all working hard to get to everyone in a timely manner, usually while prioritizing emergency storm damage to keep customers and the community safe. Whether you reach out to us here at Classic City Arborists, or another qualified tree service in the area, please be patient. Together, we’ll makes sure your tree needs are taken care of. Interested in scheduling a free quote? Contact us today to schedule an appointment! AuthorEmily Casuccio is sister and sister-in-law to Rebekah and Scott Rushing, and has worked with Classic City Arborists for the last 5 years. In addition to handling administrative tasks and customer communication (she’s the voice you’ll hear on the phone!), Emily is an experienced copywriter, editor, and storyboard consultant. To learn more about her, read samples of her work, or contact her, visit her online portfolio.
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 Mulch is a common landscaping tool used to define garden beds, reduce weed growth, and of course, encircle trees. It comes in many styles and colors, and can provide beneficial water retention and nutrients to trees both young and old. But with great benefits comes great responsibility! Improperly applied mulch, and especially mulch volcanoes, can cause much more harm than good. What Are Mulch Volcanoes?A “mulch volcano” is a pile of mulch at the base of a tree that’s piled up against the trunk in a mound that often resembles a volcano. They can often spell the end for many unlucky trees, as they break the two cardinal rules of proper mulch application: keep it thin, and never touch the trunk. Keep It ThinThe ideal depth for mulch is 2 to 4 inches, depending on what you’re mulching around. Smaller plants in garden beds will prefer closer to 2 inches of mulch, while larger plants like big shrubs and trees need closer to 4. Mulch volcanoes are often piled much higher than 4 inches – sometimes even up to a foot, or two, or more! Mulch that deep retains way too much water, creating an always-damp environment that can encourage rot and decay.  Deep mulch like mulch volcanoes also retain too much heat during the decomposition process. Thinner spreads of mulch don’t generate enough heat to cause any problems to the underlying root system, and the decomposing leads to rich nutrients for the soil. But mulch volcanoes can create heat wells that can smother young roots. Lastly, too much mulch doesn’t allow for airflow. Without airflow, the soil won’t have enough oxygen to support a healthy root system. Never Touch the TrunkAll the problems deep mulch can cause to roots, even thin mulch can cause to a trunk. Mulch volcanoes come in all shapes and sizes, and some are shallow enough that they don’t exceed the 2- to 4-inch recommendation for mulch thickness. But if the mulch crowds up against the base of the tree, then it’s still a volcano, and it’s still a problem. Mulch’s moisture retention, when pressed against the trunk, will hold that moisture against the bark, encouraging decay. Mulch’s decomposition-generated heat, even in a thin layer against the trunk of the tree, can hold damaging heat to a sensitive vascular system. And mulch’s smothering ability can keep airflow from the trunk and bark.  But a mulch volcano up against a tree trunk can also cause a special problem: girdling roots. When there’s a lot of mulch around the base of a tree, it might get confused, and start growing roots out of the trunk (this is called adventitious roots – think of it like roots on an adventure!). When these roots reach the edge of the mulch volcano, they won’t just start growing into the air; instead, they’ll curve and follow the edge of the volcano. These roots can create a ‘girdle’ around the tree, and they can restrict the flow of water and nutrients, which can cause a lot of problems for the tree, up to and including complete failure. Why Are Mulch Volcanoes Common?With such detrimental consequences for the tree, you may be wondering why mulch volcanoes are so common. Sometimes, they happen by accident – as mulch decomposes, it has to be refreshed. It’s much easier to just spread new mulch on top of the old mulch, rather than raking away the old stuff. A few rounds of this, and suddenly, you have mulch that’s way too thick and crowding the base of the tree. But the main reason is a combination of ignorance and convenience: it’s much easier to just dump a wheelbarrow full of mulch around the base of your tree and be done with it, rather than taking time to rake it into an even, thin layer, not to mention pull it away from the trunk. How bad could it be, really? And if you don’t even know that mulch volcanoes kill, it would never cross your mind to go to that extra effort.  Many people also believe mulch volcanoes are actually the proper way to mulch around a tree, usually because they either saw their neighbor do it, saw it around town (city-maintained trees are notoriously mulch-volcanoed), or even saw a professional landscaping company do it (some companies don’t take the time to mulch the right way). The misconception spreads fast. How to Properly Apply MulchSo now you know the dangers of mulch volcanoes, and you want to spread your mulch the right way. Whether you're planting a new tree or sprucing up an existing one, it’s really easy! Just follow the two cardinal rules: Keep it thin: a 2- to 4-inch depth is all you need. Spread your mulch out evenly around the base of the tree, preferably as far out as the canopy of the tree goes. In the case of young trees and saplings, a few feet from the base will do, and you can expand as the canopy grows. Never touch the trunk: rake the mulch away from the trunk to create a well around the trunk flare. Just a couple inches of space between the mulch and the base of the trunk flare should do. Pro tip: to prevent accidental mulch volcanoes, when it’s time to refresh your mulch, rake through the old layer to loosen it up, and then add a thin layer of fresh material, making sure the total depth of both layers stays between 2 to 4 inches! AuthorEmily Casuccio is sister and sister-in-law to Rebekah and Scott Rushing, and has worked with Classic City Arborists for the last 5 years. In addition to handling administrative tasks and customer communication (she’s the voice you’ll hear on the phone!), Emily is an experienced copywriter, editor, and storyboard consultant. To learn more about her, read samples of her work, or contact her, visit her online portfolio.  You probably remember celebrating Earth Day in elementary school – making little planet Earths out of blue and green construction paper, or maybe drawing pictures of the park with the sun drawn in the corner with a smiley face. And while these humble activities are fitting for a movement that began with schools in the first place, Earth Day is much more than a simple holiday. So what is Earth Day, and how can you participate? What Is Earth Day?Earth Day is a national holiday in the United States, but is celebrated far and wide with community events, fundraisers, and rallies all around the globe. Every April 22nd, we recognize the importance of the planet we live on, as well as the importance of environmental activism to keep that planet healthy. The Origins of Earth Day Earth Day was first conceived of in the 1960s by Gaylord Nelson, junior Senator from Wisconsin. Nelson was a long-time conservationist and had spent the last few decades watching with growing concern the toll the industrial revolution and the use of fossil fuels were having on the environment. He needed a way to bring his environmental concerns to the political stage to make some real change. That way was paved by Rachel Caron’s Silent Spring, published in 1962. Concern for the planet reached the general public in a way it never had before, with awareness of the problem and a growing desire to do something about it spreading across the globe.  But it wasn’t until the Santa Barbara oil spill and the Cuyahoga River fire in 1969 that Nelson acted on his concerns. Taking inspiration from the massive anti-war movements led by students, the Senator announced on national news his intention of organizing a teach-in across college campuses to mobilize students on the issue. With the assistance of Senator Pete McCloskey and a young activist Denis Hayes, Nelson organized a non-profit and began a national campaign to reach as many students as possible. The date of April 22nd was chosen as a weekday between Spring Break and final exams, when the most students would be on campus, and the advertisement campaign began to spread the news. Despite their dedication and bi-partisan support, Earth Day as we know it wouldn’t have succeeded that first year if not for Julien Koenig, one of the greatest copywriters and advertisement campaign giants of the 20th century. Koenig heard of the impending teach-ins and dropped by the national campaign office to offer his assistance. It was he who coined the term “Earth Day,” and his ad design published full-page in the Sunday New York Times that generated mass public support (and vital donations) for the movement. Responses to this ad and its subsequent runs in other newspapers and magazines revealed that, while there was definitely student interest in environmental protection, the largest supporters appeared to be college-educated women looking to leave a better world for their children. With this in mind, the national campaign shifted focus to more community-based events as opposed to just teach-ins at universities. When April 22nd, 1970 finally rolled around, an estimated 20 million Americans joined in rallies, marches, teach-ins, and gatherings to demand environmental protection reform. The Legacy of Earth Day That first wildly successful Earth Day, and every subsequent April 22nd throughout the 1970s, led to substantial environmental legislation: the Clean Air Act, the Clean Water Act, the Endangered Species Act, and Marine Mammal Protection Act, the Toxic Substances Control Act, and the Resources Conservation and Recovery Act, just to name a few. Earth Day also led to the creation of the Environmental Protection Agency, the banning of DDT, and the banning of lead in gasoline. Over the last 55 years, Earth Day has been used to rally public awareness and support for environmental concerns, from clean water to climate change. And not just in the US – campaigns popped up quickly in other countries after the holiday’s success, leading to successful environmental reform across the globe. How Can You Celebrate Earth Day 2025?If you want to participate in Earth Day this year, there’s no shortage of ways to join in! The theme for this year’s celebration is “Our Power, Our Planet,” and the focus is on the transition to renewable energy.
AuthorEmily Casuccio is sister and sister-in-law to Rebekah and Scott Rushing, and has worked with Classic City Arborists for the last 5 years. In addition to handling administrative tasks and customer communication (she’s the voice you’ll hear on the phone!), Emily is an experienced copywriter, editor, and storyboard consultant. To learn more about her, read samples of her work, or contact her, visit her online portfolio. Sources:
EarthDay.org  The vernal equinox is almost upon us, which means spring is almost here! The weather is getting warmer, the days are growing longer, and soon the flowers will be blooming. But what is the vernal equinox, and why do we celebrate it? What is the Vernal Equinox?Let’s start with what an equinox is. There are two equinoxes every year: the vernal equinox and the autumnal equinox. On these days, neither hemisphere is tilted more towards the sun than the other. The sun shines directly over the equator, making the length of day and night roughly the same, no matter where you are on the planet. The word “equinox” comes to us from the Latin aequus, meaning equal, and nox, meaning night. After an equinox, one hemisphere will begin tilting towards the sun, while the other tilts away. The hemisphere tilting towards the sun will start to see more daylight hours and less hours of darkness as it moves into its spring season. This is called the vernal equinox, “vernal” meaning something that relates to or occurs during the spring.  The hemisphere tilting away from the sun, however, will start to see less daylight hours, and more hours of darkness as it moves into its autumn season. This is the autumnal, or fall, equinox. So, for us here in the Northern hemisphere, the approaching equinox is vernal, signaling the start of spring! When is the Vernal Equinox?The vernal equinox occurs sometime between March 19th and 21st. This year, it’s on March 20th. What Does That Mean for Me?The start of spring heralds warmth and new growth, and there are lots of ways you can take advantage of the upcoming season. With the daylight hours starting to outpace the nighttime hours, spend more time outside! Go for walks, visit the park, or (once they start opening), spend an afternoon at the pool. With warmer weather on the way, it’s a good time to get planting. If you’re thinking of starting a garden, check out our list of what to plant in the spring so you’ll know what species will do well. If you’re looking to help those pollinators get a head-start on their busy season (and bring more birds, bees, and beautiful butterflies to your yard!) check out our list of what to plant to attract pollinators.  As the weather warms, you’ll also start to see your trees budding leaves. In addition to enjoying the greenery, be sure to keep your eyes out for signs that your tree might be in decline. If you see something suspicious, it might be time to call in a Certified Arborist to take a look! Feel free to give Classic City Arborists a call to schedule your free quote today. AuthorEmily Casuccio is sister and sister-in-law to Rebekah and Scott Rushing, and has worked with Classic City Arborists for the last 5 years. In addition to handling administrative tasks and customer communication (she’s the voice you’ll hear on the phone!), Emily is an experienced copywriter, editor, and storyboard consultant. To learn more about her, read samples of her work, or contact her, visit her online portfolio.  Picture this: a beautiful 2-storey craftsman home, surrounded by a lush green lawn. The grass is well-manicured, the flowers in the bed by the front door are blooming, and the tree in the front yard stands tall and strong. But around its base? A bald circle of exposed dirt, not a blade of grass to be found. It’s unsightly and discouraging: why won’t your grass grow there? The answer may seem pretty obvious, but that can also make it easy to miss: it’s the shade. A tree’s branches block sunlight from reaching the base. In our hot Georgia summers, you’ve probably seen areas of your yard scorched by the heat of the blazing sun. And while it’s true that too much exposure can be detrimental, the truth is most common suburban grasses require quite a bit (think 4 to 6 full hours’ worth) of sunlight to thrive. Another problem for your grass growing under a tree could be leaf litter and other tree debris. While fallen twigs and leaves can definitely be a good source of nutrients as they decompose, they can also act as ground cover, blocking sunlight from reaching the grass.  So What Can You Do?Barring actually cutting the whole thing down, it may seem hopeless getting grass to grow under a tree. That’s definitely an option, especially if your yard has a lot of trees. Sacrificing a few for better light exposure to the ground might be worth it. But if you don’t want to cut down your tree, there’s still plenty to try. Keeping the tree pruned is the first step – a Certified Arborist can help you determine how much and which branches to prune to both keep the tree healthy and encourage light to filter through. Second, be sure to rake beneath your tree fairly regularly. Keeping leaf litter and other tree debris off the grass will remove another barrier to sun exposure. If, despite the pruning and raking, the area beneath your tree is still too shaded for your grass to grow, you can also look into planting a more shade-tolerant grass, like fine fescue. These types of grasses might require more watering than the rest of your yard, though, so be sure to learn about their care needs before you invest. What If My Grass Still Won’t Grow? If shade-hardy grasses still won’t grow under your tree, then as much as we hate to say it, it might be time to concede defeat. There are still plenty of options for how to avoid the dreaded bald-patch, though. To make the space under your tree look more appealing without grass, consider laying down a bed of mulch. Organic shapes with clear edges (but not perfect circles) or fun geometric ones around the base of the tree can make the area look polished and thought-out. But beware of mulch volcanoes! If you have a tree in your yard preventing your grass from growing and you’d like to see what you can do, then give Classic City Arborists a call and schedule your free estimate today! AuthorEmily Casuccio is sister and sister-in-law to Rebekah and Scott Rushing, and has worked with Classic City Arborists for the last 5 years. In addition to handling administrative tasks and customer communication (she’s the voice you’ll hear on the phone!), Emily is an experienced copywriter, editor, and storyboard consultant. To learn more about her, read samples of her work, or contact her, visit her online portfolio.  Who doesn’t like a good deal? From booking a hotel room during the off-season to snagging the latest Groupon, everyone loves the thrill of not having to pay full price. And when it comes to paying for services around your home that you weren’t expecting to have to pay for anytime soon (like tree removals)? Even better! Tree removals can be costly, and if you’ve got more than one, the price can easily become overwhelming. The Cost of Tree Service depends on a variety of factors, like how big the tree is, where it’s located, any extenuating circumstances or safety hazards, and even things like what kind of equipment and insurance the tree service company has. But just like with other products and services, there are ways to help mitigate the cost of tree service – like having your trees removed or pruned during the winter months, for example. Why Is Tree Service More Affordable in the Winter? DormancyNo matter what kind of tree work you’re doing, the game plan, process, and success all hinge on the tree itself. And in the winter months, trees are dormant, conserving their energy for surviving the cold season rather than new growth. This might not seem like a big deal, but think about it. A dormant tree doesn’t have any leaves or flowers on it. That means easier access for tree work, and less debris scattered around in the process. An easier job and less clean-up means cheaper cost! Off-SeasonIn addition to the work potentially being easier to accomplish, the need for tree work slows in the winter. The holiday season means people are busy visiting family, having family visit, attending parties, and buying gifts. That dead tree you saw tends to move to the back of the priority list in the face of a full calendar. People also tend to spend more time inside in the winter, preferring the warmth of the fireplace to the cold, wet backyard. With less time spent looking at the trees around you, your chances of spotting a problem tree go down. It’s also much easier to notice that your tree looks sickly or dead when its leaves are diseased, dying, or not there when they’re supposed to be. Everything looks dead in the winter, so even if you are looking, dead trees can blend right in.  With fewer people prioritizing tree work, that leaves tree service companies doing their best to drum up some business. And the best way to encourage business? Lower prices! As an added bonus, less business means less wait time. During the summer, it could take a week or two to get an appointment scheduled for an estimate. Even once you have the quote, you could still be looking at 6 to 8 weeks on the waiting list before your work can be completed. But in the winter months, with less people asking after quotes, you’re likely to get an appointment much faster. And once you decide to accept the estimate, your wait time will probably be closer to 2 to 3 weeks! What Else Should I Consider? Another way to save on a tree removal? Don’t wait. When it comes to a dead or dying tree, the longer it’s allowed to decline, the more complex and dangerous the situation becomes. This, in turn, will make the removal more expensive. To help avoid that, it’s important to periodically give any trees on your property a once-over. Check out our article on the 5 Simple Signs To Identify If Your Tree Is In Decline for tips on what to look for. While dead trees can be camouflaged in the winter, the lack of leaves and flowers can also make it easier to spot things like parasites or cavities.  This declining tree fell on a customer's roof, leading to a costly tree removal and home repairs! If you think one of your trees might be a risk, it’s best to have a Certified Arborist come give it a look. At Classic City Arborists, we offer free estimates to all our customers. Scott Rushing, our owner and Certified Arborist, will listen to your concerns, offer his professional opinion, and then provide pricing for any work that you discuss. If you’ve got a tree you’re worried about, fill out our Contact Form today. The safety of your home and family is our top priority, which is why we maintain Worker’s Comp Coverage and General Liability Insurance and Auto Insurance, to protect both our customers and our employees. Give us a call today to see how we can improve the safety of your yard at a cheaper rate (with the same high quality work!) than you’ll find during the summer. AuthorRebekah Rushing is a mother of three and the co-owner of Classic City Arborists. When she isn’t dealing with snotty noses and dirty diapers, she handles the accounting & finance, marketing & advertising and human resources. While she is no longer the voice on the phone, she is still hard at work in the background keeping everything running smoothly. To no one’s surprise, we spend a lot of time talking about trees here at Classic City Arborists. There are a lot of specialized terms and phrases we use, and it’s easy to forget that not everybody knows what we’re talking about. Whether you’re reading one of our articles, learning about our newest Tree of the Month, or just doing some research on how best to take care of your trees, we’ve compiled this appendix of basic tree care terminology that should help you along the way. Annual Plants: Plants that will only live through one growth (flowering) cycle Bark: The outermost layer of a tree’s trunk and branches Biennial Plants: Plants that will live through only two growth (flowering) cycles Branch Thinning: Removing interior branches to reduce weight and enhance structural integrity Brush Clearing: Cutting down underbrush, such as shrubs, vines, saplings, and more to clear the ground surrounding a stand of trees. Learn more about the importance of brush clearing here! Canopy Raising: Removing lower branches up to a certain height to create more ground clearance Climate Zone: A geographic designation for identifying what plants can survive a certain climate Co-Dominant: A tree with two or more leaders rather than a single trunk Crown (also called Canopy): the upper part of the tree, from the lowest branch to the highest point of the tree Deadwooding: Removing any and all deadwood from the interior and exterior of a tree Direct Sunlight: exposure to the sun without any obstructions Full Shade: Less than 1 to 3 hours of indirect sunlight a day Full Sun: at least 6 hours of direct sunlight a day Indirect Sunlight: exposure to the sun through an obstruction, such as other foliage, window blinds, etc Invasive Species: Plants that have been introduced to a location they did not evolve in, usually by human interference Leader: A tree branch from which many other branches grow, but not all Maturity: The term for when a tree is considered ‘fully grown’ and growth slows considerably Native Species: Plants that evolved where they are located, or “is from here” Partial Shade: 3 to 6 hours of indirect sunlight a day Partial Sun: 3 to 6 hours of direct sunlight a day Perennial Plants: Plants that will live through two or more growth (flowering) cycles Tree Pruning: Removing unnecessary branches, and sometimes even roots. Think dead, dying, diseased, or overcrowded limbs. Tree Shaping: Selectively trimming foliage to create a desired shape out of the canopy Tree Topping: Cutting all upper branches of a tree to reduce its overall height Tree Trimming: Selectively and strategically cutting growth for a more attractive overall appearance and to promote healthy growth patterns Trunk: The main branch of a tree, from which all branches grow AuthorEmily Casuccio is sister and sister-in-law to Rebekah and Scott Rushing, and has over half a decade of experience in copywriting, copyediting, proofreading, and developmental storyboarding. She's worked with both published and undiscovered authors on both fiction and nonfiction, and takes pride in supporting local businesses. Her passion lies in the written word and helping authors of all capacities realize their dreams and achieve their fullest potential. To learn more about her, read samples of her work, or contact her, visit her online portfolio. Lawns can be pretty high-maintenance, what with all the mowing and watering and edging. And even with all that work, sometimes you still end up with a bunch of dead patches disrupting the green view. So what can you do? The first thing to do if you spot dead areas in your lawn is identify the culprit. There are plenty of diseases, funguses, and other ailments that might cause damage, and to properly treat your lawn, you’ll need to know what exactly is causing the problem. Large Patch DiseasePerhaps the most common affliction of otherwise award-worthy lawns is Large Patch Disease. Caused by the fungus Rhizoctonia solani, this disease does exactly what the name suggests: creates large brown or grey patches of dead or dying turf. Patches usually start around 2 to 3 feet in diameter, but if left unchecked, they can expand up to 10 feet or even more. Treatment: Avoid nitrogen-rich fertilizers, test soil and apply lime according to test recommendations, spray fungicides designed specifically for Large Patch. Summer Patch DiseaseSummer Patch Disease, also known as Magnaporthe poae, causes much smaller areas of damage, usually in circles or irregular blobs. Often, these shapes will overlap each other, creating squiggly lines across your yard. Unlike Large Patch Disease, Summer Patch Disease ranges from bronze-yellow to straw-yellow in color. This disease is common when soil temperatures get too high, are too compacted, or have poor drainage. Treatment: Avoid watering during the hottest part of the day. Aerate your lawn to improve root growth, and use acidifying fertilizers to lower the soil pH below 6.5. Fairy RingsThis disease might sound whimsical, but it can do some serious damage to your yard. Fairy Rings start out as a partial or full ring of darker green grass that appears lush and full, but is surrounded by a band of dead turf. Sometimes, the dead turf will host mushrooms, but not always. This is caused by a soil-based fungus that grows in a thick, matted layer, preventing the surrounding grass from absorbing water and nutrients. Treatment: lightly fertilize the area and regularly aerate your entire lawn to break up matts beneath the surface. Dollar Spot DiseaseSclerotinia homoeocarpa is commonly known as Dollar Spot Disease, because it causes silver-dollar-sized patches of sunken, bleached-out grass. These patches may start pretty small, but they can grow as large as a foot in diameter if left untreated. Treatment: Only water occasionally, but when you do, water deeply to get down to the base of the roots. Always water in early morning to prevent long periods of leaf wetness. Apply nitrogen-rich fertilizers. So there you have it! The most common lawn diseases over summer, and what you can do to stop them in their tracks. Of course, the best treatment is prevention, so be sure you’re following the best lawn care possible to keep your yard happy and healthy. AuthorEmily Casuccio is sister and sister-in-law to Rebekah and Scott Rushing, and has over half a decade of experience in copywriting, copyediting, proofreading, and developmental storyboarding. She's worked with both published and undiscovered authors on both fiction and nonfiction, and takes pride in supporting local businesses. Her passion lies in the written word and helping authors of all capacities realize their dreams and achieve their fullest potential. To learn more about her, read samples of her work, or contact her, visit her online portfolio. With the heat of summer settling over us, these long days are perfect for sitting in a rocking chair on the porch, sipping cool iced tea, and watching the fireflies. The only thing that could ruin such a perfectly good evening would be a sudden and incessant itch on your leg. And your arm. And your foot? Mosquitoes are unwelcome but inevitable guests in these warmer months. But luckily, there’s plenty you can do to deal with them! Last week, we talked about the American Mosquito Control Association’s annual movement: National Mosquito Control Awareness Week. Their goal is to educate the public on how to approach mosquito population control without using pesticides. Check out our article to learn their 5-step plan to reduce the number of mosquitoes in your area.  But despite your best efforts, sometimes there are too many variables outside your control. After all, you can’t go tramping through your neighbor’s yard to dump all their standing water! And when you visit the park, or spend an afternoon out on the lake? What can you do to get those pesky pests to buzz off? WearablesThere are plenty of wearable items you can buy to keep the mosquitoes away. Bracelets, sweatbands, necklaces, stickers, belt clip-ons… the choices are endless. Most of these accessories use citronella oil to ward off flying insects, though you’ll also find eucalyptus and lavender versions. Some may use a proprietary blend of repellants, not all of which are natural – be sure to read the label if you’re worried about any specific synthetic compounds. However, one of the biggest complaints with wearables is that they are either not strong enough and only ward off mosquitoes around the item itself, or are definitely strong enough to keep bugs away, but the smell is too overpowering to withstand. Bug SprayThis tried-and-true method involves spraying some kind of mosquito repellent directly on your skin. As such, you’ll have a little protection everywhere, rather than a lot of protection in just one spot like with a wearable. There are an endless number of brands to choose from, many of which offer all-natural, chemical-free options. Want to make your own bug spray at home? It’s easy! Just add essential oils to some carrier liquid (like water) and spritz.
The best essential oils for repelling mosquitoes are lemongrass, citronella, rosemary, lavender, eucalyptus, and mint (peppermint or spearmint will work, too). For your carrier liquid, you can use plain old distilled water, or a 1:1 ratio of water and witch hazel, or a 2:1 ratio of water to apple cider vinegar.
In general, for every 4 ounces of carrier liquid, you’ll want around 40-50 total drops of essential oil. For younger children, you may want to make a less concentrated spray with only 20-25 drops per 4 ounces of carrier liquid.
Essential Oil Blend Recipes
Wide-Range RepellentsIf you’re looking to keep mosquitoes away from a certain area, like your porch or the picnic table you’ve reserved at the park, then you might want to check out a wide-range repellent. These include things like candles, torches, incense sticks and nubs, and even cords you can use to lay down a protective perimeter. Most of these items will use citronella as their main repellent, though you can usually find lavender and/or eucalyptus alternatives if you dislike citronella. A newer option in this category world is the automatic repellent diffuser. These little devices emit an air-born repellent that creates a bubble of protection all around you. The main selling point of these kinds of devices are that they don’t have a strong smell, like citronella does, and they don’t require any flame, which means no smoke and no fire hazard. Traps/ZappersLastly, we have the more lethal way of dealing with mosquitoes. Simpler options, like sticky tape, attract mosquitoes by smell. Once a mosquito lands, it gets stuck, so it can’t bother you anymore. These methods are effective, though some find them cruel, as the mosquito can live quite a while stuck in the trap. They can also be unsightly, and don’t have a wide range of effect, so you often end up with four or five lengths of sticky tape dangling down in the area. You can also make your own simple traps. To do so, you’ll need something to attract the mosquitoes to the trap, and something to actually trap them. The easiest method is to cut a soda bottle (2-liters work best) in half. Fill the bottom half with warm sugar water and yeast, and then flip the top half upside-down so it creates a funnel into the bottom half. Voila! Mosquitoes are drawn to the yummy smell of yeast and sugar, go down the funnel, but then can’t climb back out. Instead of sugar and yeast, you can also use a vinegar/dish soap combo. Then there are the fancy electronic traps. Also called zappers, these little devices emit a soft UV light to attract mosquitoes (and other bugs). As soon as the insect touches the device, they’re immediately electrocuted, which is considered a little more humane. The only unpleasant bit about zappers is that the dead bugs collect into a little tray at the bottom, which inevitably has to be emptied out every so often. So there you have it! A plethora of options for keeping the mosquitoes at bay this summer. For more information on methods of mosquito control, check out the American Mosquito Control Association’s resource page. AuthorEmily Casuccio is sister and sister-in-law to Rebekah and Scott Rushing, and has over half a decade of experience in copywriting, copyediting, proofreading, and developmental storyboarding. She's worked with both published and undiscovered authors on both fiction and nonfiction, and takes pride in supporting local businesses. Her passion lies in the written word and helping authors of all capacities realize their dreams and achieve their fullest potential. To learn more about her, read samples of her work, or contact her, visit her online portfolio. As summer settles in, we’re spending more and more time outdoors. Between backyard barbecues, evenings sipping iced tea on the porch, and nights telling stories around the fire pit, there’s no shortage of reasons to be outside. The only downside here (besides the unforgiving Georgia heat) is the bugs – mosquitoes, to be exact. The little bloodsuckers can make your life miserable, not to mention itchy. It’s tempting to grab the strongest pesticide you can find and spray everything down to keep your property mosquito-free. But that might actually be the worst thing you could do! As it turns out, many common ways of dealing with mosquitoes can be dangerous, either to the mosquito population, the local ecosystem, or even to you and your family! So how can you deal with those pesky pests? National Mosquito Control Awareness WeekNext week, June 19th through the 25th, is National Mosquito Control Awareness Week. Hosted by the American Mosquito Control Association, this annual event aims to educate the public on the best and safest ways to deal with mosquitoes. Their integrated mosquito management (IMM) approach includes five steps that anyone can follow: 1. Educate Yourself Most people don’t really think about mosquitoes until they’ve got an itchy bite on their arm or leg. But successful mosquito management depends heavily on controlling the population before this stage in the mosquitoes’ life cycle. In order for mosquito eggs to develop into pupa (baby mosquitoes), they have to be exposed to water. Generally speaking, mosquitoes will choose to lay their eggs in pools of standing water to keep the eggs hydrated until they hatch. Standing water naturally occurs in depressions in the ground or low points on your property. But water can also collect in man-made locations. There are some obvious spots, like a flower pot forgotten in the corner of your porch, or a decorative bird bath. There are also some not-so-obvious spots, because water can pool almost anywhere. The less-than-a-mouthful of water gathered on the swing of your backyard playset is more than enough for a mosquito to brood. Even the divot in the lap of your favorite garden gnome probably holds just enough liquid to host some mosquito eggs. To truly control the mosquito population in your area, you’ll need to attack at the source – that is, the eggs. 2. Surveillance/Scouting Now that you know where mosquito babies come from, it’s time to figure out where specifically they’re coming from around your home. Have a look around to see if there’s any visible standing water, or any places that could house standing water the next time it rains, or your sprinklers water your lawn. Wide surveillance is the best surveillance, of course, so the more information you can gather on where mosquitoes might be nesting, the better. Talk to your neighbors to see if they’ve got any candidate locations, or take a walk around the block and see what the sidewalks look like. 3. Source Reduction So you know where mosquitoes lay their eggs, and now you know where mosquitoes could lay their eggs near you. It’s time to prevent that! The most popular method is called ‘tip and toss.’ Basically, empty out those standing water locations! The American Mosquito Control Association recommends checking your surroundings for standing water at least once a week during the warmer months, and of course, after every time it rains. While you’re at it, you can also do what you can to prevent any more water from gathering. This might look like moving some mulch around to fill in the lower areas of your yard, or tupping that flower pot upside-down so it can’t collect any more water. Maybe your garden gnome needs a little ceramic frog to sit in his lap, so the little divot there can’t fill up, either. 4. Larvicide The last two steps do involve the use of insecticides, but it’s important to note that larvicide comes first. Larvicide just means using pesticides designed specifically to impact the larval stages of life, rather than the adult stages. A variety of biological control agents exist that can be distributed into standing water where eggs or larvae already exist to prevent them from developing into adults. 5. Adulticide The last resort, adulticide, refers to the use of pesticides to kill off adult pests. The danger here is that pesticides can’t target just one type of pest – so while you’ll definitely kill off those mosquitoes, you might also kill off the local bees, butterflies, and other pollinators. In addition, some pesticides can be harmful to the environment. If you must look to adulticide, be sure to do your research and find the best and most environmentally-friendly insecticide for your area, and of course, follow the application instructions exactly. A lot of insecticide pollution could be avoided by only applying what the directions say to, rather than spraying anything and everything in sight. AuthorEmily Casuccio is sister and sister-in-law to Rebekah and Scott Rushing, and has over half a decade of experience in copywriting, copyediting, proofreading, and developmental storyboarding. She's worked with both published and undiscovered authors on both fiction and nonfiction, and takes pride in supporting local businesses. Her passion lies in the written word and helping authors of all capacities realize their dreams and achieve their fullest potential. To learn more about her, read samples of her work, or contact her, visit her online portfolio. |
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23 Whatever you do, work at it with all your heart, as working for the Lord, not for human masters,
24 since you know that you will receive an inheritance from the Lord as a reward. It is the Lord Christ you are serving.
Colossians 3:23-24
24 since you know that you will receive an inheritance from the Lord as a reward. It is the Lord Christ you are serving.
Colossians 3:23-24