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 If you’ve ever dealt with home insurance, then you know how frustrating the claims and indemnity process can be. And when there’s the pressure of a tree sitting on your house, that process becomes even more stressful. To help make things less overwhelming, here are a few tips and important points to keep in mind. Don’t Delay – Call Today!If a tree or a branch falls on your house, you’ll need to make some calls. The most important call if anyone is injured is always 911 – your first priority is making sure the people in your home are taken care of. But your second call should be to your insurance. This is both to notify them of the damage as quickly as possible, and also to check for any requirements you’ll need to fulfil to ensure the damage is covered. Depending on the situation, the adjuster may want ‘before’ pictures of the area, or they may even need to come out and take a look at it themselves. Of course, in more severe and urgent situations, your insurance will understand the need to get the problem taken care of immediately, and may waive or alter their requirements to ensure no further damage is caused. Once you’ve notified your insurance, then it’s time to call a Certified Arborist. Most tree service companies prioritize emergencies, so unless a large storm causes a high volume of emergency work all at once, they should be able to fit you in pretty quickly. Common MisconceptionsThere are a lot of assumptions out there about what your insurance will cover, or what they might require in order to cover something. Here are a few misconceptions we’d like to debunk: 1. You need your insurance’s permission to remove a tree from your house . In an emergency situation, it’s much more important to get the dangerous tree off your house than it is to wait for your insurance to send an agent to your house to look things over. That said, we always recommend contacting your insurance as soon as possible to at the very least notify them of the situation. 2. Insurance only covers removing the part of the tree touching the house. It’s true that insurances often want to minimize costs when funding the removal of a fallen tree, so there’s this idea that they’ll only pay for taking care of what’s actively causing damage to the home. But insurances usually understand that getting debris off a structure can be incredibly complicated, and sometimes the easiest and safest way to remove a tree involves removing the whole thing. That’s why it’s important to get a Certified Arborist involved, to assess the situation and determine the best course of action. If your insurance is skeptical or reluctant to cover the full removal, most arborists should be willing to write a letter to or even speak directly with your insurance agent to explain the situation. 3. Insurance only covers damage to your home.  While it’s called “home insurance,” never assume your policy only covers your physical house. Many policies extend coverage to things like mailboxes and address posts, or even sprinkler systems and landscape lighting. Depending on the package you chose, your shed or fence might be covered too! Even if you read through your policy and don’t think something is covered, it’s worth the call to your insurance to double-check. 4. Stump grinding is never covered by insurance. Stump grinding is generally considered an aesthetic preference as opposed to a necessity, which is why most people assume it’s not covered by their insurance. But trees don’t always break at some point up the trunk. Sometimes, the root system fails, and the entire root ball lifts up out of the ground. This tangled mess of roots can lift up and break through a nearby fence, your patio, or even your underground utilities. Assuming the damage is to a covered structure, the removal of the root ball and grinding of the stump would likely be included in the repair process. So there you have it! Hopefully, these tips and debunked misconceptions will help ease some of the stress when it comes to emergency tree removals. If you’re in the Athens or Watkinsville, Georgia area and would like to get a quote, whether for an emergency tree removal or a routine pruning, contact Classic City Arborists today to schedule your free estimate! AuthorEmily Casuccio is sister and sister-in-law to Rebekah and Scott Rushing, and has worked with Classic City Arborists for the last 5 years. In addition to handling administrative tasks and customer communication (she’s the voice you’ll hear on the phone!), Emily is an experienced copywriter, editor, and storyboard consultant. To learn more about her, read samples of her work, or contact her, visit her online portfolio.
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 Whether it’s a tree that’s been sheared to allow clearance for power lines, or a poor crepe myrtle that’s been “murdered,” we’ve all seen the unfortunate realities of tree topping. But what’s so bad about it? And why, when the practice is pretty universally looked down on in the arboricultural world, is it still happening? What is Tree Topping?Tree topping, also known as heading, stubbing, or dehorning, is the practice of drastically removing some or all of the large branches of a mature tree. Though "top" is in the name, the removed branches can come from any part of the canopy. They may be cut all the way back to the base, or they may just be chopped off at whatever point is needed to achieve a particular goal (like clearing way for utilities, removing visual obstruction, or even just reducing overall height to a certain range).  Why is Tree Topping Bad?Obviously, trees need their leaves to survive. But you might not realize that, in order for a tree to thrive, it actually maintains a certain crown-to-root ratio designed to ensure it obtains enough nutrients both from photosynthesis and from the ground to support itself. The exact ratio will depend on the species, age, and size of the tree, but every tree has one. Tree topping drastically upsets that ratio by removing a significant portion of the crown, thereby removing a significant portion of how the tree obtains nutrients. Not to mention its reserves for harder times! With large sections of foliage removed, the tree will attempt to regrow that foliage through new growth shoots. These smaller, upright “water sprouts” are delicate and more susceptible to disease, which can easily spread to the rest of the tree. They also grow densely clustered together, disrupting the tree’s natural growth pattern. This can be unsightly, of course, but also creates an imbalance in distribution that can lead to structural failure later in the tree’s life.  On top of decimating a tree’s ability to gather nutrients, tree topping also exposes the tree to a variety of potentially devastating circumstances. The main problem is the wounds left behind from each cut. Normally, the tree would close, callus, or otherwise seal off the injury to prevent things like insects, fungi, and other decay from setting in. But when a large branch is fully cut off, the tree will no longer send nutrients to that branch, since there’s no foliage to support. Without those nutrients, the wound won’t close, and the injury will remain vulnerable to pests and decay that can easily spread to the rest of the tree. Another concern is sun damage. When the normal canopy is removed, the remaining branches and trunk are left without protection from the sun and may get the tree equivalent of sunburnt! If It’s So Bad… Why Is It Still Happening? As we mentioned, tree topping usually happens when trees grow too close to power lines or other utilities. In these kinds of public spaces, cost-effectiveness is usually prioritized over any individual tree’s wellbeing. Selective pruning, while better for the tree, is often more difficult and time-intensive (and therefore more expensive) than just using a pole saw to hack away the offending branches. Fully removing the tree can also be more time-intensive and expensive, which is why the topping option is chosen. Trees are also topped in situations where they are obstructing a view or casting shade where shade is not wanted. In such cases, selective pruning wouldn’t necessarily solve the problem the way that topping does, and so it won’t be chosen. Most homeowners that choose to have a tree topped are either trying to get some sun on their garden, or are worried that the tree in question is too tall and poses a threat to their home. They likely don’t even realize that topping is such a bad thing! That’s why we always recommend having your tree work needs reviewed by a Certified Arborist – someone who can warn you of the dangers, and recommend practices that can help you achieve your goals without hurting your trees! Have a tree you’d like pruned? Contact Classic City Arborists today to schedule a free quote! AuthorEmily Casuccio is sister and sister-in-law to Rebekah and Scott Rushing, and has worked with Classic City Arborists for the last 5 years. In addition to handling administrative tasks and customer communication (she’s the voice you’ll hear on the phone!), Emily is an experienced copywriter, editor, and storyboard consultant. To learn more about her, read samples of her work, or contact her, visit her online portfolio.  Phew, it’s getting hot outside! The first day of summer was June 1st, so the warmest season is finally upon us. But the summer solstice, also considered the first day of summer, isn’t until June 21st. So what gives? What is the Summer Solstice?The word “solstice” comes from the Latin solstitium, which means “sun stands still.” There are two solstices a year – one in summer, and one in winter. Both solstices are days when the Earth’s axis, or tilt, is aligned with the sun. In the winter, that alignment means we have the longest night, or the most hours of darkness. In the summer, it means we have the longest day, or the most hours of sunlight! In more temperate climates, the summer solstice is used to mark the middle of the season, and celebrated as Midsummer. In warmer climates, like here in Georgia, the solstice is often considered the first day of summer.  But what about June 1st, then? Two First Days of SummerYou’ve probably heard that June 1st is the first official day of summer. In fact, you’ve probably seen it marked on calendars and announced by news anchors. This is because meteorologists divide the 12 months of the year into 4 equal seasons. They do this to make compiling and comparing climate data over the years easier to comprehend. The meteorological summer season is June 1st through August 31st. But traditionally, and across a variety of cultures in warmer climates, the solstice has been seen as the real first day of summer. Summer Is Here. So What Now?Either way you view it, the 1st or the 21st, summer is here. There are lots of things to keep in mind as we move into the hottest months of the year. First, while the spring planting season is over, that doesn’t mean you can’t still get out in the garden! There’s a host of things you can plant during the hotter months. Check out our article on What to Plant This Summer to learn more. Second, and most importantly, we’ve already talked about impending summer storms. While hurricanes don’t usually reach us, they do tend to send lots of rain and heavy winds our way, which can easily topple a compromised tree. It’s important to keep your eyes on your trees this time of year, and our blog post on signs of decay can help you identify potential problem trees that may pose a higher fall risk. If you do see something concerning, or even something you just aren’t sure about, it’s best to call a Certified Arborist immediately.  If you do, remember this is the busy season for your local tree services and certified arborists. In the summer, everyone is spending more time outside, looking at their trees, and calling their local arborists. We’re all working hard to get to everyone in a timely manner, usually while prioritizing emergency storm damage to keep customers and the community safe. Whether you reach out to us here at Classic City Arborists, or another qualified tree service in the area, please be patient. Together, we’ll makes sure your tree needs are taken care of. Interested in scheduling a free quote? Contact us today to schedule an appointment! AuthorEmily Casuccio is sister and sister-in-law to Rebekah and Scott Rushing, and has worked with Classic City Arborists for the last 5 years. In addition to handling administrative tasks and customer communication (she’s the voice you’ll hear on the phone!), Emily is an experienced copywriter, editor, and storyboard consultant. To learn more about her, read samples of her work, or contact her, visit her online portfolio.  Mulch is a common landscaping tool used to define garden beds, reduce weed growth, and of course, encircle trees. It comes in many styles and colors, and can provide beneficial water retention and nutrients to trees both young and old. But with great benefits comes great responsibility! Improperly applied mulch, and especially mulch volcanoes, can cause much more harm than good. What Are Mulch Volcanoes?A “mulch volcano” is a pile of mulch at the base of a tree that’s piled up against the trunk in a mound that often resembles a volcano. They can often spell the end for many unlucky trees, as they break the two cardinal rules of proper mulch application: keep it thin, and never touch the trunk. Keep It ThinThe ideal depth for mulch is 2 to 4 inches, depending on what you’re mulching around. Smaller plants in garden beds will prefer closer to 2 inches of mulch, while larger plants like big shrubs and trees need closer to 4. Mulch volcanoes are often piled much higher than 4 inches – sometimes even up to a foot, or two, or more! Mulch that deep retains way too much water, creating an always-damp environment that can encourage rot and decay.  Deep mulch like mulch volcanoes also retain too much heat during the decomposition process. Thinner spreads of mulch don’t generate enough heat to cause any problems to the underlying root system, and the decomposing leads to rich nutrients for the soil. But mulch volcanoes can create heat wells that can smother young roots. Lastly, too much mulch doesn’t allow for airflow. Without airflow, the soil won’t have enough oxygen to support a healthy root system. Never Touch the TrunkAll the problems deep mulch can cause to roots, even thin mulch can cause to a trunk. Mulch volcanoes come in all shapes and sizes, and some are shallow enough that they don’t exceed the 2- to 4-inch recommendation for mulch thickness. But if the mulch crowds up against the base of the tree, then it’s still a volcano, and it’s still a problem. Mulch’s moisture retention, when pressed against the trunk, will hold that moisture against the bark, encouraging decay. Mulch’s decomposition-generated heat, even in a thin layer against the trunk of the tree, can hold damaging heat to a sensitive vascular system. And mulch’s smothering ability can keep airflow from the trunk and bark.  But a mulch volcano up against a tree trunk can also cause a special problem: girdling roots. When there’s a lot of mulch around the base of a tree, it might get confused, and start growing roots out of the trunk (this is called adventitious roots – think of it like roots on an adventure!). When these roots reach the edge of the mulch volcano, they won’t just start growing into the air; instead, they’ll curve and follow the edge of the volcano. These roots can create a ‘girdle’ around the tree, and they can restrict the flow of water and nutrients, which can cause a lot of problems for the tree, up to and including complete failure. Why Are Mulch Volcanoes Common?With such detrimental consequences for the tree, you may be wondering why mulch volcanoes are so common. Sometimes, they happen by accident – as mulch decomposes, it has to be refreshed. It’s much easier to just spread new mulch on top of the old mulch, rather than raking away the old stuff. A few rounds of this, and suddenly, you have mulch that’s way too thick and crowding the base of the tree. But the main reason is a combination of ignorance and convenience: it’s much easier to just dump a wheelbarrow full of mulch around the base of your tree and be done with it, rather than taking time to rake it into an even, thin layer, not to mention pull it away from the trunk. How bad could it be, really? And if you don’t even know that mulch volcanoes kill, it would never cross your mind to go to that extra effort.  Many people also believe mulch volcanoes are actually the proper way to mulch around a tree, usually because they either saw their neighbor do it, saw it around town (city-maintained trees are notoriously mulch-volcanoed), or even saw a professional landscaping company do it (some companies don’t take the time to mulch the right way). The misconception spreads fast. How to Properly Apply MulchSo now you know the dangers of mulch volcanoes, and you want to spread your mulch the right way. Whether you're planting a new tree or sprucing up an existing one, it’s really easy! Just follow the two cardinal rules: Keep it thin: a 2- to 4-inch depth is all you need. Spread your mulch out evenly around the base of the tree, preferably as far out as the canopy of the tree goes. In the case of young trees and saplings, a few feet from the base will do, and you can expand as the canopy grows. Never touch the trunk: rake the mulch away from the trunk to create a well around the trunk flare. Just a couple inches of space between the mulch and the base of the trunk flare should do. Pro tip: to prevent accidental mulch volcanoes, when it’s time to refresh your mulch, rake through the old layer to loosen it up, and then add a thin layer of fresh material, making sure the total depth of both layers stays between 2 to 4 inches! AuthorEmily Casuccio is sister and sister-in-law to Rebekah and Scott Rushing, and has worked with Classic City Arborists for the last 5 years. In addition to handling administrative tasks and customer communication (she’s the voice you’ll hear on the phone!), Emily is an experienced copywriter, editor, and storyboard consultant. To learn more about her, read samples of her work, or contact her, visit her online portfolio.  You probably remember celebrating Earth Day in elementary school – making little planet Earths out of blue and green construction paper, or maybe drawing pictures of the park with the sun drawn in the corner with a smiley face. And while these humble activities are fitting for a movement that began with schools in the first place, Earth Day is much more than a simple holiday. So what is Earth Day, and how can you participate? What Is Earth Day?Earth Day is a national holiday in the United States, but is celebrated far and wide with community events, fundraisers, and rallies all around the globe. Every April 22nd, we recognize the importance of the planet we live on, as well as the importance of environmental activism to keep that planet healthy. The Origins of Earth Day Earth Day was first conceived of in the 1960s by Gaylord Nelson, junior Senator from Wisconsin. Nelson was a long-time conservationist and had spent the last few decades watching with growing concern the toll the industrial revolution and the use of fossil fuels were having on the environment. He needed a way to bring his environmental concerns to the political stage to make some real change. That way was paved by Rachel Caron’s Silent Spring, published in 1962. Concern for the planet reached the general public in a way it never had before, with awareness of the problem and a growing desire to do something about it spreading across the globe.  But it wasn’t until the Santa Barbara oil spill and the Cuyahoga River fire in 1969 that Nelson acted on his concerns. Taking inspiration from the massive anti-war movements led by students, the Senator announced on national news his intention of organizing a teach-in across college campuses to mobilize students on the issue. With the assistance of Senator Pete McCloskey and a young activist Denis Hayes, Nelson organized a non-profit and began a national campaign to reach as many students as possible. The date of April 22nd was chosen as a weekday between Spring Break and final exams, when the most students would be on campus, and the advertisement campaign began to spread the news. Despite their dedication and bi-partisan support, Earth Day as we know it wouldn’t have succeeded that first year if not for Julien Koenig, one of the greatest copywriters and advertisement campaign giants of the 20th century. Koenig heard of the impending teach-ins and dropped by the national campaign office to offer his assistance. It was he who coined the term “Earth Day,” and his ad design published full-page in the Sunday New York Times that generated mass public support (and vital donations) for the movement. Responses to this ad and its subsequent runs in other newspapers and magazines revealed that, while there was definitely student interest in environmental protection, the largest supporters appeared to be college-educated women looking to leave a better world for their children. With this in mind, the national campaign shifted focus to more community-based events as opposed to just teach-ins at universities. When April 22nd, 1970 finally rolled around, an estimated 20 million Americans joined in rallies, marches, teach-ins, and gatherings to demand environmental protection reform. The Legacy of Earth Day That first wildly successful Earth Day, and every subsequent April 22nd throughout the 1970s, led to substantial environmental legislation: the Clean Air Act, the Clean Water Act, the Endangered Species Act, and Marine Mammal Protection Act, the Toxic Substances Control Act, and the Resources Conservation and Recovery Act, just to name a few. Earth Day also led to the creation of the Environmental Protection Agency, the banning of DDT, and the banning of lead in gasoline. Over the last 55 years, Earth Day has been used to rally public awareness and support for environmental concerns, from clean water to climate change. And not just in the US – campaigns popped up quickly in other countries after the holiday’s success, leading to successful environmental reform across the globe. How Can You Celebrate Earth Day 2025?If you want to participate in Earth Day this year, there’s no shortage of ways to join in! The theme for this year’s celebration is “Our Power, Our Planet,” and the focus is on the transition to renewable energy.
AuthorEmily Casuccio is sister and sister-in-law to Rebekah and Scott Rushing, and has worked with Classic City Arborists for the last 5 years. In addition to handling administrative tasks and customer communication (she’s the voice you’ll hear on the phone!), Emily is an experienced copywriter, editor, and storyboard consultant. To learn more about her, read samples of her work, or contact her, visit her online portfolio. Sources:
EarthDay.org  The vernal equinox is almost upon us, which means spring is almost here! The weather is getting warmer, the days are growing longer, and soon the flowers will be blooming. But what is the vernal equinox, and why do we celebrate it? What is the Vernal Equinox?Let’s start with what an equinox is. There are two equinoxes every year: the vernal equinox and the autumnal equinox. On these days, neither hemisphere is tilted more towards the sun than the other. The sun shines directly over the equator, making the length of day and night roughly the same, no matter where you are on the planet. The word “equinox” comes to us from the Latin aequus, meaning equal, and nox, meaning night. After an equinox, one hemisphere will begin tilting towards the sun, while the other tilts away. The hemisphere tilting towards the sun will start to see more daylight hours and less hours of darkness as it moves into its spring season. This is called the vernal equinox, “vernal” meaning something that relates to or occurs during the spring.  The hemisphere tilting away from the sun, however, will start to see less daylight hours, and more hours of darkness as it moves into its autumn season. This is the autumnal, or fall, equinox. So, for us here in the Northern hemisphere, the approaching equinox is vernal, signaling the start of spring! When is the Vernal Equinox?The vernal equinox occurs sometime between March 19th and 21st. This year, it’s on March 20th. What Does That Mean for Me?The start of spring heralds warmth and new growth, and there are lots of ways you can take advantage of the upcoming season. With the daylight hours starting to outpace the nighttime hours, spend more time outside! Go for walks, visit the park, or (once they start opening), spend an afternoon at the pool. With warmer weather on the way, it’s a good time to get planting. If you’re thinking of starting a garden, check out our list of what to plant in the spring so you’ll know what species will do well. If you’re looking to help those pollinators get a head-start on their busy season (and bring more birds, bees, and beautiful butterflies to your yard!) check out our list of what to plant to attract pollinators.  As the weather warms, you’ll also start to see your trees budding leaves. In addition to enjoying the greenery, be sure to keep your eyes out for signs that your tree might be in decline. If you see something suspicious, it might be time to call in a Certified Arborist to take a look! Feel free to give Classic City Arborists a call to schedule your free quote today. AuthorEmily Casuccio is sister and sister-in-law to Rebekah and Scott Rushing, and has worked with Classic City Arborists for the last 5 years. In addition to handling administrative tasks and customer communication (she’s the voice you’ll hear on the phone!), Emily is an experienced copywriter, editor, and storyboard consultant. To learn more about her, read samples of her work, or contact her, visit her online portfolio.  Picture this: a beautiful 2-storey craftsman home, surrounded by a lush green lawn. The grass is well-manicured, the flowers in the bed by the front door are blooming, and the tree in the front yard stands tall and strong. But around its base? A bald circle of exposed dirt, not a blade of grass to be found. It’s unsightly and discouraging: why won’t your grass grow there? The answer may seem pretty obvious, but that can also make it easy to miss: it’s the shade. A tree’s branches block sunlight from reaching the base. In our hot Georgia summers, you’ve probably seen areas of your yard scorched by the heat of the blazing sun. And while it’s true that too much exposure can be detrimental, the truth is most common suburban grasses require quite a bit (think 4 to 6 full hours’ worth) of sunlight to thrive. Another problem for your grass growing under a tree could be leaf litter and other tree debris. While fallen twigs and leaves can definitely be a good source of nutrients as they decompose, they can also act as ground cover, blocking sunlight from reaching the grass.  So What Can You Do?Barring actually cutting the whole thing down, it may seem hopeless getting grass to grow under a tree. That’s definitely an option, especially if your yard has a lot of trees. Sacrificing a few for better light exposure to the ground might be worth it. But if you don’t want to cut down your tree, there’s still plenty to try. Keeping the tree pruned is the first step – a Certified Arborist can help you determine how much and which branches to prune to both keep the tree healthy and encourage light to filter through. Second, be sure to rake beneath your tree fairly regularly. Keeping leaf litter and other tree debris off the grass will remove another barrier to sun exposure. If, despite the pruning and raking, the area beneath your tree is still too shaded for your grass to grow, you can also look into planting a more shade-tolerant grass, like fine fescue. These types of grasses might require more watering than the rest of your yard, though, so be sure to learn about their care needs before you invest. What If My Grass Still Won’t Grow? If shade-hardy grasses still won’t grow under your tree, then as much as we hate to say it, it might be time to concede defeat. There are still plenty of options for how to avoid the dreaded bald-patch, though. To make the space under your tree look more appealing without grass, consider laying down a bed of mulch. Organic shapes with clear edges (but not perfect circles) or fun geometric ones around the base of the tree can make the area look polished and thought-out. But beware of mulch volcanoes! If you have a tree in your yard preventing your grass from growing and you’d like to see what you can do, then give Classic City Arborists a call and schedule your free estimate today! AuthorEmily Casuccio is sister and sister-in-law to Rebekah and Scott Rushing, and has worked with Classic City Arborists for the last 5 years. In addition to handling administrative tasks and customer communication (she’s the voice you’ll hear on the phone!), Emily is an experienced copywriter, editor, and storyboard consultant. To learn more about her, read samples of her work, or contact her, visit her online portfolio.  Who doesn’t like a good deal? From booking a hotel room during the off-season to snagging the latest Groupon, everyone loves the thrill of not having to pay full price. And when it comes to paying for services around your home that you weren’t expecting to have to pay for anytime soon (like tree removals)? Even better! Tree removals can be costly, and if you’ve got more than one, the price can easily become overwhelming. The Cost of Tree Service depends on a variety of factors, like how big the tree is, where it’s located, any extenuating circumstances or safety hazards, and even things like what kind of equipment and insurance the tree service company has. But just like with other products and services, there are ways to help mitigate the cost of tree service – like having your trees removed or pruned during the winter months, for example. Why Is Tree Service More Affordable in the Winter? DormancyNo matter what kind of tree work you’re doing, the game plan, process, and success all hinge on the tree itself. And in the winter months, trees are dormant, conserving their energy for surviving the cold season rather than new growth. This might not seem like a big deal, but think about it. A dormant tree doesn’t have any leaves or flowers on it. That means easier access for tree work, and less debris scattered around in the process. An easier job and less clean-up means cheaper cost! Off-SeasonIn addition to the work potentially being easier to accomplish, the need for tree work slows in the winter. The holiday season means people are busy visiting family, having family visit, attending parties, and buying gifts. That dead tree you saw tends to move to the back of the priority list in the face of a full calendar. People also tend to spend more time inside in the winter, preferring the warmth of the fireplace to the cold, wet backyard. With less time spent looking at the trees around you, your chances of spotting a problem tree go down. It’s also much easier to notice that your tree looks sickly or dead when its leaves are diseased, dying, or not there when they’re supposed to be. Everything looks dead in the winter, so even if you are looking, dead trees can blend right in.  With fewer people prioritizing tree work, that leaves tree service companies doing their best to drum up some business. And the best way to encourage business? Lower prices! As an added bonus, less business means less wait time. During the summer, it could take a week or two to get an appointment scheduled for an estimate. Even once you have the quote, you could still be looking at 6 to 8 weeks on the waiting list before your work can be completed. But in the winter months, with less people asking after quotes, you’re likely to get an appointment much faster. And once you decide to accept the estimate, your wait time will probably be closer to 2 to 3 weeks! What Else Should I Consider? Another way to save on a tree removal? Don’t wait. When it comes to a dead or dying tree, the longer it’s allowed to decline, the more complex and dangerous the situation becomes. This, in turn, will make the removal more expensive. To help avoid that, it’s important to periodically give any trees on your property a once-over. Check out our article on the 5 Simple Signs To Identify If Your Tree Is In Decline for tips on what to look for. While dead trees can be camouflaged in the winter, the lack of leaves and flowers can also make it easier to spot things like parasites or cavities.  This declining tree fell on a customer's roof, leading to a costly tree removal and home repairs! If you think one of your trees might be a risk, it’s best to have a Certified Arborist come give it a look. At Classic City Arborists, we offer free estimates to all our customers. Scott Rushing, our owner and Certified Arborist, will listen to your concerns, offer his professional opinion, and then provide pricing for any work that you discuss. If you’ve got a tree you’re worried about, fill out our Contact Form today. The safety of your home and family is our top priority, which is why we maintain Worker’s Comp Coverage and General Liability Insurance and Auto Insurance, to protect both our customers and our employees. Give us a call today to see how we can improve the safety of your yard at a cheaper rate (with the same high quality work!) than you’ll find during the summer. AuthorRebekah Rushing is a mother of three and the co-owner of Classic City Arborists. When she isn’t dealing with snotty noses and dirty diapers, she handles the accounting & finance, marketing & advertising and human resources. While she is no longer the voice on the phone, she is still hard at work in the background keeping everything running smoothly. To no one’s surprise, we spend a lot of time talking about trees here at Classic City Arborists. There are a lot of specialized terms and phrases we use, and it’s easy to forget that not everybody knows what we’re talking about. Whether you’re reading one of our articles, learning about our newest Tree of the Month, or just doing some research on how best to take care of your trees, we’ve compiled this appendix of basic tree care terminology that should help you along the way. Annual Plants: Plants that will only live through one growth (flowering) cycle Bark: The outermost layer of a tree’s trunk and branches Biennial Plants: Plants that will live through only two growth (flowering) cycles Branch Thinning: Removing interior branches to reduce weight and enhance structural integrity Brush Clearing: Cutting down underbrush, such as shrubs, vines, saplings, and more to clear the ground surrounding a stand of trees. Learn more about the importance of brush clearing here! Canopy Raising: Removing lower branches up to a certain height to create more ground clearance Climate Zone: A geographic designation for identifying what plants can survive a certain climate Co-Dominant: A tree with two or more leaders rather than a single trunk Crown (also called Canopy): the upper part of the tree, from the lowest branch to the highest point of the tree Deadwooding: Removing any and all deadwood from the interior and exterior of a tree Direct Sunlight: exposure to the sun without any obstructions Full Shade: Less than 1 to 3 hours of indirect sunlight a day Full Sun: at least 6 hours of direct sunlight a day Indirect Sunlight: exposure to the sun through an obstruction, such as other foliage, window blinds, etc Invasive Species: Plants that have been introduced to a location they did not evolve in, usually by human interference Leader: A tree branch from which many other branches grow, but not all Maturity: The term for when a tree is considered ‘fully grown’ and growth slows considerably Native Species: Plants that evolved where they are located, or “is from here” Partial Shade: 3 to 6 hours of indirect sunlight a day Partial Sun: 3 to 6 hours of direct sunlight a day Perennial Plants: Plants that will live through two or more growth (flowering) cycles Tree Pruning: Removing unnecessary branches, and sometimes even roots. Think dead, dying, diseased, or overcrowded limbs. Tree Shaping: Selectively trimming foliage to create a desired shape out of the canopy Tree Topping: Cutting all upper branches of a tree to reduce its overall height Tree Trimming: Selectively and strategically cutting growth for a more attractive overall appearance and to promote healthy growth patterns Trunk: The main branch of a tree, from which all branches grow AuthorEmily Casuccio is sister and sister-in-law to Rebekah and Scott Rushing, and has over half a decade of experience in copywriting, copyediting, proofreading, and developmental storyboarding. She's worked with both published and undiscovered authors on both fiction and nonfiction, and takes pride in supporting local businesses. Her passion lies in the written word and helping authors of all capacities realize their dreams and achieve their fullest potential. To learn more about her, read samples of her work, or contact her, visit her online portfolio. Lawns can be pretty high-maintenance, what with all the mowing and watering and edging. And even with all that work, sometimes you still end up with a bunch of dead patches disrupting the green view. So what can you do? The first thing to do if you spot dead areas in your lawn is identify the culprit. There are plenty of diseases, funguses, and other ailments that might cause damage, and to properly treat your lawn, you’ll need to know what exactly is causing the problem. Large Patch DiseasePerhaps the most common affliction of otherwise award-worthy lawns is Large Patch Disease. Caused by the fungus Rhizoctonia solani, this disease does exactly what the name suggests: creates large brown or grey patches of dead or dying turf. Patches usually start around 2 to 3 feet in diameter, but if left unchecked, they can expand up to 10 feet or even more. Treatment: Avoid nitrogen-rich fertilizers, test soil and apply lime according to test recommendations, spray fungicides designed specifically for Large Patch. Summer Patch DiseaseSummer Patch Disease, also known as Magnaporthe poae, causes much smaller areas of damage, usually in circles or irregular blobs. Often, these shapes will overlap each other, creating squiggly lines across your yard. Unlike Large Patch Disease, Summer Patch Disease ranges from bronze-yellow to straw-yellow in color. This disease is common when soil temperatures get too high, are too compacted, or have poor drainage. Treatment: Avoid watering during the hottest part of the day. Aerate your lawn to improve root growth, and use acidifying fertilizers to lower the soil pH below 6.5. Fairy RingsThis disease might sound whimsical, but it can do some serious damage to your yard. Fairy Rings start out as a partial or full ring of darker green grass that appears lush and full, but is surrounded by a band of dead turf. Sometimes, the dead turf will host mushrooms, but not always. This is caused by a soil-based fungus that grows in a thick, matted layer, preventing the surrounding grass from absorbing water and nutrients. Treatment: lightly fertilize the area and regularly aerate your entire lawn to break up matts beneath the surface. Dollar Spot DiseaseSclerotinia homoeocarpa is commonly known as Dollar Spot Disease, because it causes silver-dollar-sized patches of sunken, bleached-out grass. These patches may start pretty small, but they can grow as large as a foot in diameter if left untreated. Treatment: Only water occasionally, but when you do, water deeply to get down to the base of the roots. Always water in early morning to prevent long periods of leaf wetness. Apply nitrogen-rich fertilizers. So there you have it! The most common lawn diseases over summer, and what you can do to stop them in their tracks. Of course, the best treatment is prevention, so be sure you’re following the best lawn care possible to keep your yard happy and healthy. AuthorEmily Casuccio is sister and sister-in-law to Rebekah and Scott Rushing, and has over half a decade of experience in copywriting, copyediting, proofreading, and developmental storyboarding. She's worked with both published and undiscovered authors on both fiction and nonfiction, and takes pride in supporting local businesses. Her passion lies in the written word and helping authors of all capacities realize their dreams and achieve their fullest potential. To learn more about her, read samples of her work, or contact her, visit her online portfolio. |
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23 Whatever you do, work at it with all your heart, as working for the Lord, not for human masters,
24 since you know that you will receive an inheritance from the Lord as a reward. It is the Lord Christ you are serving.
Colossians 3:23-24
24 since you know that you will receive an inheritance from the Lord as a reward. It is the Lord Christ you are serving.
Colossians 3:23-24